Topic: Claw's 05 LGT Wagon "Bluestreak"

[Claw]

While waiting for dinner to cook, I decided to fix my heated seat.  It stopped heating a few winters ago, so I finally decided to do something about it.

Using this thread as a guide, and armed with the necessary tools and a dictionary of ethopian curses and swears, I set off.

Some pictures:

The burn:


The other side:


Old & New, both OEM:


Seat base apart, with the cushion missing:


Putting it back together, using zip ties, because the hog ring tool from Princess Auto did ugly things to the hog rings:


Fini:


Works as expected, bum will be warm this winter.

[snackers]

How much was the new heater element versus fiddling with soldering the wires that small?
I'd likely go new replacement as well, but just curious.

[Claw]

Going in I wasn't sure what it was..  so I opted to buy a new one for something like 90USD. (It's been a while so I don't recall exactly how much).

Having seen it, I would opt to solder next time.

[YvanF]

Going in I wasn't sure what it was..  so I opted to buy a new one for something like 90USD. (It's been a while so I don't recall exactly how much).

Having seen it, I would opt to solder next time.

Good to know. Ill investigate mine before ordering then.

[GrantC]

I feel like this thread is missing an update...  Claw can toss context in here if he wants.

[Asstuna]

Good job that fella is holding the front of the car to stop it rolling off the ramps and crushing one of the #garageofidiots

[seat safety switch]

Good job that fella is holding the front of the car to stop it rolling off the ramps and crushing one of the #garageofidiots

It's got a parking brake. And gears.

[Claw]

Thanks for the pics Grant.

Started off as a #GarageofIdiots to:
- replace timing belt, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, the works
- install KillerB pickup & baffle, STI oil pan
- install Koni Inserts
- install Group N (STI) engine mounts
- replace leaky axle
- install rear diff skid plate
- check and remove banjo bolt filters

Ended up doing:
- replaced enginy bits - timing belt, water pump, thermostat, oil pressure sender, spark plugs, STI oil pan
- installed KillerB pickup & baffle, engine mounts
- replaced clutch (why I didn't think of that earlier, I don't know), throw-out bearing, main seal, pilot bearing
- repainted supertones, fixed wiring and relay (thanks carguyjon, GrantC, snackers, ultimatt)

What didn't get done:
- Koni inserts
- rear diff skid plate (forward mounts don't seat nicely between the nuts and the front diff bolts)
- PCV Valve

So after all that, there was oil leak of some sort.  Poking my head underneath, the Fumitomo was a bit loose, tightened it another quarter turn, but also noticed that the transmission was weeping where the axle plugged in (reference Grant's picture).  Pulled that apart the following weekend with the help of GrantC and my 3yo daughter and replaced the seal.  No more leaks.

[Asstuna]

It's got a parking brake. And gears.

No itshay. I thought you could sarcasm.

[ultimatt]

And I have jackstands! Matching ones even!

[Claw]

Also, kiddo figured out how to use a jack.

And this is how we do it. by acklee, on Flickr

[jellynuts]

That chrysanthemum gets me so high

[diamondedge]

That chrysanthemum gets me so high

word broseph i can smash that 6 pack like nothin'

[Claw]

Couple of weeks ago, caught a patch of ice and spun the thing.

This happened, crashed into the outer concrete wall of the Quesnell Bridge from the Fox Drive onramp:


Me and the little kid are OK.  She made me say "sorry car" because I hurt her. 

[Claw]

There was an attempt to to replace the rear wheel bearings on this 16 year old car.  Some bolts like the one that attaches the ABS sensor to the hub, was rusted so any attempt to undo simply rounded the bolt head.  10mm bolt remover was needed on one side but thankfully not the other.

Got as far as removing all the bits down to these four bolts and I'm stuck..  lots of PB Blaster and deep creep failed to loosen and it's cramped quarters in there for a socket or extension..

rwb bolts by acklee, on Flickr

** not my picture

[Canuckrz]

You could disconnect the upper control arm and strut, and pivot the hub down so it faces the ground while letting the CV slide out of the hub which should give you clear access to those bolts with an impact.

Alternatively you could probably get those bolts as is with an extension, and an impact wobble/flex socket.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-3-8-in-drive-swivel-impact-socket-set-metric-7-pc-0581232p.html?rrec=true#spc

[Claw]

Alright, thanks for the link..  my socket set came with the 3/8 version of this and it didn't work very well.. at a weird angle.  Are the ones in your link better?

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-u-joint-socket-set-3-pc-0589649p.html#srp

[Canuckrz]

They're a lower profile between the socket head and where it flexes, also its a swivel vs a u joint so it should bind up less at larger angles. Granted even though its 3/8 its for an impact so its a touch on the chunkier side.

[trevoroni]

I just did both rear wheel bearings on my Outback and managed to get those loose with a socket and extension on my 3/8" drive ratchet with a piece of pipe over the handle for more leverage. The top 2 were tough but I got the socket and ratchet on in the right place and then went at it blind from outside the wheel well. Once they were broke loose I used a u-joint to spin then out by hand.