Topic: Help with 1x10 conversion?

[darthekai]

Hey ya'll.
Having ridden my Chilcoltin for the first time, there are some things I want to improve:
-click in rear from something?

-dropper post (31.6mm)

-front ring delete, or 1x10 conversion. (currently 2x10 with x9 front shifter.) and I know NOTHING about drive trains...

For the conversion, I want to go with something like 30x40 or 32x42. Currently have a brand new shimano zee 10sp derailleur on there, and need to replace the x9 shifter OR the zee with an x9.

1st question: which is better?

Next problem is front. I need a 30 or 32t chain ring and I don't want to get new cranks. Current cranks are race face sixc and hella dope. Currently a 37t big ring.



2nd question: can I simply remove the chain rings from the front, disengage from the crank, and put a race face 30t on there? Or is it more complex?

I current have a blackspire twinty2x on there. I like bash gaurds and to some extent, chain guides. Anyone know if I can just throw a spacer on or a new "guide section" and retain the $$$?

I have no clue who makes the cog set and if it can get adder rings.

[soulindk]

Damn you and your Sixc-y goodness.

Longlivetheride will have the best knowledge of doing a conversion so I'd say PM him or wait for his reply.

From my quick search and what I've read in the past it's a fairly easy conversion. If you are staying with 10x in the back you shouldn't have to change your derailer, but this is also dependant upon the size of your larger cogs you go with and the cage length on your Zee. Hopefully it's a medium length cage as it would most likely allow you to keep it and utilize its clutch mech.

For upfront, I think it is as simple as your hoping other than the fact that you'll have to throw on proper spacers to take that place of the room that the small chain ring was taking up (see chain line tolerance). For your main chain ring make sure you get one that is designed for 1x drivelines as it will not have ramps and pins to assist in gear changes. I think RaceFace and E13 have some affordable options.

Here are some sites that I found helpful. The first one is a gearing calculator and the other two just kind of outline converting.

Hope this helped.

Oh, and definitely get a dropper post. I just have the cheap cable mech Giant one and even though it's a pain in the assay to maintain, I still love it.

http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/#26I1567I1
http://www.ridemorebikes.com/single-chainring-1x-drivetrain-guide/
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-how-to-convert-to-a-1x-drivetrain-37451/

[kold911]

I'm just starting my research on this as well.

From what I've read so far, I believe you need a med or long cage rear derailleur, but you may also be able to get a conversion kit from one-up.

One thing that's holding me back is my endurance, as I like to climb (just not very good at it yet), so I'm leary of going 1x. although the new 50t they announced last week has me looking for deals on parts.

Doesn't raceface make a 32t for your cranks?

[darthekai]

Yeah it seems like i have a quite large selection of Skinny-Wide 1x front chainrings that will work on these cranks. The thing I was worried about was the "offset" from the BB created by swapping a 2 ring wide setup for a single. Perhaps 1x rings have a standoff on the bolt holes to put the chainring right in the middle between the two old locations?

THis is what im leaning towards: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/blackspire-snaggletooth-narrow-wide-chainring/rp-prod112084
http://can.oneupcomponents.com/products/radr-cage
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/oneup-components-expander-sprocket-cog-kit/rp-prod141744



using a friends bike, I determined 30x40 was for sure a big enough climbing ratio. im sure 32x40 will be fine as well. the thing IM personally worried about is 1) loosing chains while pedaling during DH due to small-small. and 2) pedaling being completely worthless during DH due to not a small enough descent ratio.

In the near future I will take my cog set off and see if i can dismantle it and take the 17t off.. it looks so shiney and lightweight, so itd be nice to hang on to.

[darthekai]

Cassette is totally expandable.



Will report back.

[Longlivetheride]

Damn you and your Sixc-y goodness.

Longlivetheride will have the best knowledge of doing a conversion so I'd say PM him or wait for his reply.

From my quick search and what I've read in the past it's a fairly easy conversion. If you are staying with 10x in the back you shouldn't have to change your derailer, but this is also dependant upon the size of your larger cogs you go with and the cage length on your Zee. Hopefully it's a medium length cage as it would most likely allow you to keep it and utilize its clutch mech.

For upfront, I think it is as simple as your hoping other than the fact that you'll have to throw on proper spacers to take that place of the room that the small chain ring was taking up (see chain line tolerance). For your main chain ring make sure you get one that is designed for 1x drivelines as it will not have ramps and pins to assist in gear changes. I think RaceFace and E13 have some affordable options.

Here are some sites that I found helpful. The first one is a gearing calculator and the other two just kind of outline converting.

Hope this helped.

Oh, and definitely get a dropper post. I just have the cheap cable mech Giant one and even though it's a pain in the assay to maintain, I still love it.

http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/#26I1567I1
http://www.ridemorebikes.com/single-chainring-1x-drivetrain-guide/
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-how-to-convert-to-a-1x-drivetrain-37451/

Thanks Soullindk

Pretty popular mod now.
30T seems to be the most common ratio in the front specifically if you are not riding a carbon hard tail.

The issue you will run into is the rear Zee derailleur wont have the range you want. From the picture i can see it looks like you are running the smaller of the 2 Zee derailleurs (the GS not the recommended one kit option of the sgs cage ).

If you do have the SGS you will need the purchase the inner plate as well as the outer plate to do the switch.


The Clutch option will take up a lot of the worries about loosing the chain on the DH by hold tension in the cage. if you are super worried about the issue you can buy just a top guide or cheaper option is using the old derailleur as said guide.

You should check the chain life of the chain as well to check if this is going to be as easy as just doing the one up kit or should you be doing a drive train at the same time based on wear and if you are at the point of of needing a cog and chain may make more sense to spring for a 11spd cassette chain and shifter than putting all the work into a 10spd setup

Parts list 10spd
Chain ring
One up outer and inner cage (if SGS)
new chain (for the length increase )
cassette (if chain is passed wear and wont mesh with old cassette )
one up ex pander sprocket

Parts list 11spd
New shifter
chain ring
cassette (these fit 10spd freehub bodies and even more range !! )
Chain
Cable and housing


PM if you have any questions

[Claw]

Similar lines...

I have a Shimano XT Rear Derailleur 10-speed RD-M786 GS Shadow+ RD:
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-xt-rear-derailleur-10-speed-rd-m786-gs-shadow-silver-36251

And this cassette in the back:
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-xt-chain-cn-hg95-cs-m771-10-11-36-10-speed-wear-and-tear-set-196200

And a double crankset in 28t/36t:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/shimano-xt-m785-10-speed-double-chainset/rp-prod67200

If I want to go 1x10, how much would I have to change?  I know I'll need a new chain...  probably stay 10-speed because I just bought new 2x10 XTR shifters..

[darthekai]

First, figure out your desired final gear ratio.
I went 42x32, and Ill report back how it feels once i get the time to get it all on the bike.
I rode a 40x30 and it felt awesome.

Then, you will need:
1 - A big sprocket
2- A spacer
3 - A 16t sprocket
4 - A smaller chainring. (36 is too big, 28 is too small)
maybe 5 - a new derailleur cage
maybe 6 - a spacer for your chainring
maybe 7 - a single ring chain guide/bash guard.
maybe 8 - a new chain

OneUp sells kits of 1,2, and 3. Basically you remove the cassette, add the big ring (with a spacer, the side of the spacer is important), add the other rings till the 14t, remove one spacer, add the 16t next,then install the little gears. The spec you have to get right is the brand of hub. This changes the tooth spacing and shape for the cassette splines.

when you get 4, get a narrow-wide chainring. its absolutely worth it.
You may need spacers to place the new single chainring roughly in the middle of your two old ones. I think raceface has em built in.
The spec you have to get right is the DISTANCE CENTER-CENTER of the two bolts across from each other holding the chainring to the crank.

OneUp STRONGLY recommends #5. you will need the RAD cage (not the RADr). This corrects chain wrap and free chain length BACK to shimano's spec.
]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65WG6hkj5lY
]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDJNKpJJwFw

#6 I mentioned already. This is to re-align your chain. Its more important than some people think. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chainline-concepts

#7 if youre trying to save money, dont get this yet. If you ride hard and you find you keep loosing your chain, get one. Get a blackspire. Get a DER guide. It adds a tiny bit of drag but who cares youre not a road biker (youre not a road biker are you?) : http://www.blackspire.com/DER-Guide

#8 Ill let you know how it goes for me, but I dunno if youll need a new chain. A good rule of thumb is wrap it around the big gear and the chainring (and not the derailleur) and measure. The add 4 links.
Youre adding 4-6 teeth and removing 6-4 teeth... you may have to add or remove a single link? or just giv'r like me

[darthekai]

will post pics later.

What I learned:
I didnt need a longer chain
My chainline on the 42t sprocket is WAY off. Even with spacers on the chainring. Only way to correct it would be to get a smaller BB. No thanks, because:
narrow-wide chainrings RULE

and tuning a derailleur is super damn hard.
through pretty much blind luck, I got it working perfectly. Feels like buttah.
Fastest gear is plenty. Easiest gear is so damn cheat-y feeling.
My 2x chain-guide/bashguard from blackspire actually works really well in this application. It allows the super bad chainline to exist while dramatically increasing chain wrap.

[darthekai]

I bought a right hand dropper post and mounted it upside down on the left because their design is stupid.

[Claw]

Looks good, do you have 9 or 10 gears out back (I count 9)?  Which dropper did you get?  And for the crankset, is it just a matter of taking out the gears and bolting on a new one?

Any issues with backpedalling?  And lastly, did you order it all from Chain Reaction?

[darthekai]

Looks good, do you have 9 or 10 gears out back (I count 9)? 
Which dropper did you get?  And for the crankset, is it just a matter of taking out the gears and bolting on a new one?

Any issues with backpedalling?  And lastly, did you order it all from Chain Reaction?

10. The second smallest one is pretty hidden.
I got the rocks shox reverb.
Yes it is. I had to remove my cranks to get the chain rings off. I had to remove some spacers from the outside and if I didn't get the chain ring I got, I'd have to add spacers on the inside.
No issues with backpedaling, it tuned up perfectly.

Everything from chain reaction.
I normally try my hardest to buy stuff from the lbs.
But it seems like all the shops here a) have bunk selection and b) don't seem to want business.

[soulindk]

lol I knew you would break down and get a dropper post. You won't look back on that purchase though.